Editor’s note: This profile originally ran in our February 2012 Personalities Issue, which examined many of the unique personalities in and around the sport of cycling.

Within the cycling industry, there is a regular traveling circus of sponsors and product managers found at all the major events, including the Tour de France, the USA Pro Cycling Challenge and Interbike.

Brian Worthy, owner of Vermarc USA, is a member of that traveling circus. He somehow makes sure that he’s everywhere of importance in the cycling world — and, in many cases, outside it as well.

When the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, Worthy was on-site. He’s attended Academy Awards after-parties, he’s watched a Sugar Ray Leonard fight sitting alongside Joe Frazier and he’s been to the Sundance Film Festival a half-dozen times.

Yes, Velo is a Boulder-based publication and Worthy lives and works in Boulder, but he is no local phenomenon. In fact, he’s flown over 1.8 million miles on United Airlines alone. Most everyone in the cycling industry knows Worthy, but few know what he does. And in speaking with him, the soft-eyed, white-haired man is almost intentionally enigmatic.

Simply put, Worthy runs a one-man operation that takes, processes and ships custom cycling clothing orders for 130 different cycling clubs. He is the U.S. connection for the “Belgian mafia” of cycling clothing.

And he does all this while traveling — a lot. During the busiest times in his career, he traveled to Europe five times a year. He’s backed off a little recently, but still spends 90 to 100 days away from home.

So how does a guy born in Grinnell, Iowa, become the cycling industry’s Mr. Ubiquitous? Worthy is a self-described opportunist. He makes the most of his ever-increasing network of friends and acquaintances, whether it’s partnering with Darach McQuaid (brother of UCI president, Pat McQuaid) to publish the official Tour de France guide for the U.S. or helping to launch Camelbak in its infancy.

Roots

Worthy started his life of cycling in the 1970s right as the fitness craze took hold in America. The cycling boom was exploding at that time and Worthy used the bicycle as a training tool for tennis.

The cycling culture of Worthy’s home state, Iowa, was, and is, dominated by RAGBRAI (The Register’s Annual Great Bicycle Ride Across Iowa). Though Worthy never rode the entire seven-day event, one memory still stands out from his time touring Iowa. “I watched Nixon’s resignation on RAGBRAI. It was on a Thursday night in a hotel in Waterloo, Iowa. We had to keep putting quarters in the television to see the whole thing.”

Worthy won quite a few bikes races, competing in both road and cyclocross. “I wanted to be at a level where all my friends were, but I had too many things going on (like today). Even in the 70s you had to make a commitment to racing. And I didn’t have the time for it.”

He raced on the Levi’s-Raleigh team alongside the likes of Steve Tilford, Greg Demgen, Jeff Bradley and Andy Hampsten. But soon enough Worthy began focusing on other things.

While earning a film degree in Austin, Texas, Worthy hung out with many of the early 7-Eleven riders who came to the area for early-season training. Because he knew the local roads, Demgen and Tom Schuler quickly nicknamed him “Tour Guide.” His work behind the scenes in cycling had begun. During his time in Texas, Worthy also worked behind the curtain at the Austin City Limits, rubbing elbows with Willie Nelson, Bonnie Raitt and Sting.

It was Davis Phinney who talked Worthy into moving to Boulder. At first he only summered in Colorado to escape the Texas heat. In 1984, he moved there for good.

“Boulder was a much smaller place then,” Worthy said. “If you wanted to be an athlete, it was easier because nothing else was distracting you. There was no nightlife. There was nothing to do. And no one thought of going to Denver. The Dave Scotts of the world all moved to Boulder because it was a great place to train. The bike was accepted.”

Abbey Bike Works Crombie Tool >> $40

While I’ll always contend that a mechanic’s most important tool is his or her noggin, the wrenches, levers, cutting edges and other items that fill our toolboxes and cover our workspace walls cannot be underestimated.

For a pro mechanic the goal is to carry as little as possible while still getting the job done. For shop mechanics it’s a little different. They have more time and more resources, so their work must be that of a maestro. A team mechanic is more of a triage surgeon.

When a tool comes along that helps both the race and the shop mechanic, you know that its manufacturer is onto something. This is the case with Abbey Bike Works’ Crombie Tool. It’s a cassette lockring tool. What makes the Crombie a bit special is that it fits over quick-release nuts. This speeds up the process of changing cassettes significantly.

Jason Quade of Abbey Bike Works named the tool after a mechanic friend, Jeff Crombie, who works with the SpiderTech pro cycling team. Crombie noticed that cassette lockrings were rattling loose over rough roads and started checking them as part of his daily bike inspection. This required that he remove the quick releases though. Thus was born my new favorite tool. It’s a refinement to be sure, but a significant one in my opinion.

It also didn’t hurt that Quade laser-engraved my name on the sample he sent for testing. The Crombie costs $40 for the standard, dual-sided version reviewed here. Quade also offers an SL version with a hollow handle that saves 100 grams for $45 and a single-sided, Shimano-only tool for $35. All versions are made in Bend, Oregon, from 17-4 stainless steel.

www.abbeybikeworks.com

Editor’s Note: VeloNews tech editor Nick Legan is a former ProTour mechanic who most recently wrenched for Team RadioShack at the 2010 Tour de France and elsewhere. His column has appeared here every Thursday since October 20, 2010. This is Ask Nick #90 and Legan’s final column before he departs VeloNews.com. We hope you’ve enjoyed his weekly Q&A as much as we have. If so, drop a comment below.

Q.Nick,
I just had a bike fit done for my second bike.

During the fitting, the bike fitter also adjusted the fore-aft position of my shoes and cleats. All of my bikes have the same crank length (170mm). We also looked at the lateral adjustment of the cleat to adjust for the Q-factor of the crank and BB. Then, it occurred to me that my bikes would have different Q-factors since they have different cranksets (Cannondale Hollowgram vs. SRAM Red) and different bottom brackets (BB30 and GXP).

What do you do when you have different bikes and multiple shoes? Do you set specific shoe/cleat combinations for specific bikes or not? Or, is the adjustment not really necessary or too insignificant? (Loaded question.)

I wonder what the pro teams do? Or, do they use different spindle lengths for different bikes so they do not need to adjust the lateral distance (Q-factor) of the potential multiple bike and shoe-cleat combination? — Mark

A.Mark,
Make all of your bike fits identical, at least as much as possible. That would be my suggestion. But then I have a finicky body. Other riders won’t notice even large changes. They are blessed with bodies that adapt quickly to change. Mine doesn’t. If you have knee twinges after missing your day’s ride and climbing a flight of stairs, you probably need to play close attention to your bike fit.

Using the same saddle, pedal, shoes and handlebar on all your road bikes is a good tactic. This is made easy for pros because they have sponsor obligations. Using the same crank length is a good start, but seat heights can still be affected by differences in shoe sole thicknesses, pedal stack heights and even different big short padding or saddle wear (compression as a saddle wears decreases the distance between the top of the saddle).

One question I have is whether you went to the same fitter for both of your fits. Is your fitter aware of your multiple bikes? If not, it’s probably a good idea to book some time to work with your fitter to get all your bikes fitting the same.

I try to have one pair of road and one pair of mountain bike shoes that I use for all my bikes. Eliminating variables is key to simplifying your bike riding. Once I have a pair of shoes dialed in, I order a replacement and hide them away. I’m the same way with saddles. I keep spares of my preferred saddle around and ride it on all my bikes.

Q.Nick,
I’m in the market for a time trial bike under $3,000. I have looked at the Cervélo P2 and was wondering if you had any experience with that specific bike. Also how do you feel about the Trek Speed Concept? — Kevin

A.Kevin,
I don’t think you can go wrong with either of those bikes. You should base your purchase on which one fits you better. In a wind tunnel I would suspect that the Trek is faster, but if the Cervélo fits you better, then you’ll be faster. When it comes to ease of repair and maintenance, I would give the nod to the P2. It’s a really well thought out design that keeps things simple and accessible. The Trek works well when in the hands of an experienced mechanic.

Another option to consider is spending considerably less on a bike and buying some time in a wind tunnel. Get an inexpensive aluminum time trial frame with Shimano 105 or SRAM Rival parts and spend your money on achieving a good position, with a super slippery helmet and skinsuit (bought after trying different models at the tunnel). Then spend time on the bike. To be a good time trialist, you need to put in the work out on the road. That will make a much bigger difference than your decision between the P2 or the Speed Concept. Hope that helps!

Q.Nick,
I work as a mechanic and have been gluing tubular tires on road/track/cross/tri bike for years. I still have trouble getting tires to sit perfectly straight as well as avoiding a light hop in the tire right around the valve. Despite having mounted hundreds of tires, it is a fairly time consuming process for me to get tubulars mounted perfectly.

It looks like at the WorldTour level, mechanics are gluing up tires at a very rapid rate. While I’m sure they are mounted perfectly secure, it seems like it would be near impossible for all of those tires to have been mounted perfectly straight and round.

My question is this: is it not of ultimate concern to spend the time to get tubulars mounted absolutely perfectly or are WorldTour mechanics just that good that it takes no time at all for them to do a perfect job? — Derek

A.Derek,
It is more important for a tire to be securely mounted than it is that it’s absolutely straight and round. The fact is that few tires are perfectly manufactured. The tires that I’ve mounted to a standard that I would consider “perfect” are few and far between. But every one of them that I’ve stretched on was optimized as much as possible. Some tires are better than others, though. I’ve always had good luck with high-end tires from Vittoria, Continental, Hutchinson, Veloflex, and Schwalbe. In my experience, many boutique, handmade tires rarely have treads mounted straight on the casings. Inexpensive tubulars seem to have larger hops at the valve.

The process that WorldTour mechanics employ also makes it easier to get them on straight. A stretched tire is easier to work with. Making the valve stem hole a little bigger can help minimize the dreaded hop. Usually when there are a lot of tires to mount, a couple mechanics will team up and do it assembly line-style, with one applying glue and the other mounting the tire. You get in a groove.

It also helps that team mechanics put on so many tires during the season. Their arms and hands get strong from the constant work. That strength means that they struggle less and can more easily manipulate the tire into place.

Q.Nick,
I have a 2008 Cervélo R3 SL and I have always had less then stellar shifting. I run Campagnolo Record 10-speed. I have noticed that the top pulley of the rear derailleur does not sit directly under the cogset. It sort of swings back behind it a bit. I brought it to a shop recently and they told me that there have been compatibility issues with some frame manufacturers and Campagnolo. When we held the derailleur directly underneath the cogset, everything shifted great. We looked at some aftermarket derailleur hangers to see if any would bring the derailleur into proper position. No luck. Since Campy does not provide a “B” screw like Shimano, is there anything I can do? — Keith Goldstein

A.Keith,
I’m not entirely sure if you mean that the derailleur doesn’t give you enough chain wrap, when viewed in profile, or if when viewed from behind, the top pulley doesn’t align with a given cog. In either case, there is a solution.

First up, Campagnolo rear derailleurs DO have a “B” screw. It just isn’t located in the same place as on Shimano derailleurs. Look at the lower knuckle near where it mounts to the derailleur pulley cage. There is a Phillips head screw there. Use it to give the required chain wrap while still allowing the top pulley to clear your biggest cog.

Second, if the second situation is vexing you, align the rear derailleur hanger. Then set up your rear derailleur again, starting with the stops, then the cable tension.

There is no reason you shouldn’t enjoy perfect shifting on your Cervélo. If your shop is having problems with your and others’ bikes, perhaps it is the culprit, not the parts involved in the matter. And while it’s easy for me to say that, this can be an opportunity for them, and you, to learn more. Problems help us improve. Best of luck.

Q.Nick,
My job is going to relocate me from NYC to the west of Ireland for a while and, before I leave, I want to pick up a spare pair of wheels for my road bike. I am 6-foot-3-inches and 225 pounds. I ride an Orbea Orca on Mavic Ksyrium SL wheels, which have given me four trouble-free years of service. I’d love to get a set of 30 or 40mm carbon wheels, but, considering it rains a lot in the west of Ireland and the roads are not the best, and the fact that I only ride for pleasure and not competition, I’m not sure they’re such a good idea. I reckon something proven in the spring classics would be suitable but what would that be? Paris-Roubaix aside, what are the wheels of choice for the Ronde van Vlaanderen, Ghent-Wevelgem, etc.? — Rich

A.Rich,
I agree that carbon wheels won’t serve you best. The braking performance still can’t match that of a quality aluminum rim. While you’d save a bit of weight, aluminum wheels will perform better in Ireland.

As for what to buy? Well there are plenty of great pre-built options. I love Shimano’s Ultegra tubeless wheels. (They can be used with normal tubes and tires as well, but why wouldn’t you go tubeless?) Mavic’s Ksyrium wheels are still around after all these years for a reason: they are high quality, long lasting hoops. I recently rode a set of American Classic Hurricanes (designed for Clydesdale riders) and liked them quite a lot.

Your other option is to have some wheels built. If you fancy a particular brand of hubs, or want to color coordinate, you can easily. Pink Chris King hubs? Go for it. Understated black DT Swiss 240S hubs? Whatever floats your boat. In the hands of the right wheel builder, you’ll have a set of wheels that, with maintenance, can outlast your assignment to Ireland.

Editor’s Note: VeloNews tech editor Nick Legan is a former ProTour mechanic who most recently wrenched for Team RadioShack at the 2010 Tour de France and elsewhere. His column appears here every Thursday. You can submit questions to Nick at asknick@competitorgroup.com, and be sure to check out Nick’s previous columns.

Q.Nick,
I have a question about tubular punctures on pro teams. What happens to the punctured tires? Do they all get gathered up and sent to some skilled old lady somewhere in Italy who patiently un-sews them, repairs/replaces the tube and puts them back into circulation? Certainly, you don’t throw away a $100 tire because of one repairable hole. Do you? — Scott A. Wells

A.Scott,
I hate to admit to this, but they are trashed. In some cases, teams actually cut the tire and keep the valve stem to prove to sponsors that they’re going through tires and not hoarding. If it’s a tiny pinhole puncture, mechanics might throw some sealant in them and use them as spare tires for when the riders go training at races on tubular wheels. But even that is rare.

Again, pro cycling is anything but ecologically sound. In the name of performance, there is a lot of waste. With large budgets and big sponsor allocations, it’s all about ensuring the riders’ efforts aren’t wasted. That means that a bike must be kept reliable at all costs. It goes even farther than tossed punctured tires, though.

You’ll really hate to hear my next bit of information: often tires are thrown away before they even puncture. Because pros are putting in so many miles, tires on race wheels actually have a chance to wear out before they puncture. But the amount of wear allowed by a given mechanic varies. Some, at the first sign of tread wear, will replace the tire to help prevent on-the-road punctures.

Q.Nick,
I got back into road riding this year after 10 years of mountain biking. The last time I wrapped bars, Benotto Cello was the tape of choice. Now there are tons of tape types. I grabbed one recommended by my shop and it’s way too thick for my taste. What are the pro riders using now? — Dave

A.Dave,
Handlebar tape has come a long way since Benotto (though none of it looks quite as good as the translucent yellow Benotto I used to use on my Trek 460). Most tape is quite elastic, so before you throw away the tape you have, try rewrapping it. With a bit more tension, the tape will stretch thinner. You can also wrap with less overlap for a thinner overall diameter. If this is still too thick, try fi’zi:k’s Microtex tape. It’s nice and thin, wraps well and holds up nicely. If you ride a fi’zi:k saddle you can also color coordinate. I’ve also really liked Bontrager’s Race Lite Grippy tape and Salsa’s Gel Cork tape. Lastly, Deda’s handlebar tape is quite thin. Avoid anything with the word “Roubaix” in it. That’ll be going the other direction.

Q.Nick,
As someone who needs to work with a budget for component upgrades, what provides the best return for your money? Is it better to buy new hubs/bottom bracket with better bearings or spend the money on lighter wheels? — Carl

A.Carl,
It depends on what you’re trying to achieve. If you’re talking longevity and durability, I would recommend focusing on bearings. If you’re interested in better performance, you’ll want to look at weight and aerodynamics. Bearings don’t make up that large of an increase in performance when compared to a more aerodynamic rim shape or a well-fitted jersey or skinsuit.

When it comes to upgrades that make a real-world difference, I would say that money is always well spent on contact points: saddles, handlebars, grips or bar tape, gloves, helmets, pedals, shoes, and shorts. These are items that you physically interact with and if something is bugging you or adding discomfort to your cycling equation, it needs to be remedied. I had a bike once that I wanted to like more than I actually was. After changing the handlebar to a preferred model, suddenly I was smitten.

After that, I would encourage you to up your level of maintenance. The average cyclist can feel the difference of high-performance cables and better tires after riding lower quality versions. When I’ve grown a bit weary of some of my bikes, I throw on a new set of tires and some fresh bar tape and fall in love all over again.

Q.Nick,
What’s the word on road tubeless? I’ve been riding Shimano Dura-Ace wheels and Hutchinson Fusion tires for a few years and have been happy with it. But I haven’t raced on it. I had a friend race the Gila with the same setup and he had a catastrophic blowout coming down the Sapillo. Now I’m not so sure about tubeless. Obviously there are a lot of factors in play (tire pressure, possible damaged bead during installation, road conditions, weather), but it’s in my head a little. How can I know if my road tubeless setup is safe for racing, high-speed descending, hot temps, etc? — Isaac Dancy

A.Isaac,
The only way to know if a tire/rim combo is safe to ride is through careful installation and regular inspection. I wouldn’t hesitate to ride road tubeless in any condition (which is a good thing as it’s on my Harvey Cycle Works travel bike that I have with me here in Germany for Eurobike). I don’t know all the circumstances surrounding your friend’s blowout, but I’m sure that it could have been prevented. Those may sound like harsh words, but then the consequences are high. I don’t mean to pick on your friend, but it amazes me how much attention bike racers will give their training, their nutrition and their pre-race routine while ignoring a major part of the equation: their bikes!

What makes a pro team mechanic a pro team mechanic is actually very repetitive in nature: inspection. By paying daily attention to a bike, a good mechanic can prevent virtually all on-the-road problems. Crashes happen, but they shouldn’t be caused by mechanical failures.

USA Cycling used to ban riders from competitions if they rolled a tubular tire and caused an accident. While this may seem harsh, I wholeheartedly agree with such measures. If you don’t look after your bike, you are a liability in a peloton.

Ok, rant over. But really, you should be just fine riding road tubeless if your tires and rims are designed to work together and properly installed. Have fun out there!

With increased interest in winter cycling, more brands have devoted resources to the segment. New brands have been born dealing solely with bikes with tires wider than three inches. One of them is Minneapolis-based 45North. Get it? The 45 North latitude line runs through the city and signifies that it lies halfway from the equator to the North Pole. Live at or north of that line in North America and you can count on some chilly winters (or wet ones if you’re in the U.K.). David Gabrys runs the brand, which is just a year old. He took time to show us the Wolvhammer, the latest addition to the 45North winter cycling lineup.

45North already makes excellent fat bike tires (great for both snow as well as sand and dirt trails), pedals, chains and some nice winter wear. But the weakest link in these devoted winter cyclists’ wardrobe was footwear. Many dedicated winter cyclists wear Sorels or other insulated boots and flat pedals for riding in frigid conditions. But a bit of market research told 45North that most winter riders preferred to clip in, given the choice, so the company launched a boot project.

Instead of starting with a cycling shoe and trying to make it warmer, 45North looked at mountaineering boots and repurposed them for cycling. What it came up with is called the Wolvhammer. Its six-layer construction ensures that feet are kept warm and dry during the chilliest of rides. How cold? Well, Gabrys was justifiably slow to put a temperature range on the shoes, but he felt that he could safely say that most riders would be comfortable for 60-to-90 minutes of riding in temperatures ranging from 10 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.

The shoe starts with a Vibram sole. This makes for great traction and durability. 45North used a wide last for the shoe to make room for additional insulation above the last. Next up is the insole. This uses a two-millimeter aerogel, a material used by NASA to keep astronauts warm when in shadows in space, sandwiched between two different densities of foam. This keeps a rider’s foot from experiencing a cold spot where the cleat is attached to the shoe.

While not technically waterproof, the boot is extremely water resistant. A Cordura outer goes high over the ankle, with a Velcro strap to cinch it at the top and a water resistance zipper to close the gaiter-like outer. Natural rubber covers the toe of the outer and a coating helps guard against abrasion. Inside, the inner bootie uses 200-gram Insulate for insulation with Nylex fleece surrounding the foot and fur on the ankle cuff and tongue. Cinch lock lacing keeps the closure simple and easy to adjust even with gloves on. It is also possible to stuff a toe warmer between the outer gaiter and inner bootie to ward off numb toes for even longer.

The shoes come in full European sizes from 38 to 50 (excluding 49). The boots will run $325 and will be available December 1, though Gabrys encouraged prospective buyers to act fast: certain sizes are already pre-sold out.

And the award? Yep, the Eurobike show announced that 45North had won an award in the clothing category for shoe design. The selection committee mentioned it was particularly impressed by the shoe’s construction and 45North’s use of materials in the boot.

For updates on endurance mountain biking, follow Singletrack_com on Twitter and like us on Facebook
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If you read my review in June, I wanted to let you know that Tim Lane of DirtBaggies sent me a different pair of overshorts in a smaller size. That has made all the difference in my opinion of the product.

My complaints from before have all been remedied by getting the size corrected. Thankfully DirtBaggies offers a “60 day no quibble” guarantee on its product, so if you decide to order a pair (and I encourage you to do so), fret not if they don’t fit perfectly on the first try. Because the bib undershort and baggy overshort are performing such different roles, the cuts vary.

With very few exceptions, I wear medium sized bibs. Initially I ordered 32″ bibs and shell shorts. After getting a pair of 30″ shell shorts, in black (a color I prefer), I was one happy mountain biker. I no longer felt the need for a drawstring and the leg length of the 30″ overshorts is perfect for me.

The shorts haven’t gotten any cheaper since my review, at $250 for both the bib and the shell short. While they are pricey, they’re also made in the U.S., and DirtBaggies may also be the best baggy mountain bike shorts on the market.

For updates on endurance mountain biking, follow Singletrack_com on Twitter and like us on Facebook
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Editor’s Note: VeloNews tech editor Nick Legan is a former ProTour mechanic who most recently wrenched for Team RadioShack at the 2010 Tour de France and elsewhere. His column appears here every Thursday. You can submit questions to Nick at asknick@competitorgroup.com, and be sure to check out Nick’s previous columns.

Attention ladies and germs: First up, an announcement. I wanted to let you, my readers, know that I’m leaving VeloNews.com and Velo magazine, effective September 7, for new opportunities. It’s been a great pleasure taking your questions and leading the Velo tech crew. Cycling is my first love and will always remain so. By default, you, the cyclists out on the road, are dear to me. So keep looking after each other. We’re all in this together, so please seek unity and not division.

I’m proud to have been a part of the VeloNews family and played a small role in its long history. I grew up reading VeloNews and will remain a loyal reader. The passion that VeloNews’ writers, reporters and editors have for the sport of cycling is unparalleled. I leave with love and respect for my colleagues at VeloNews. My interests have seen me getting dirtier on bike rides and I’ll follow my interests in my next venture as I look to learn more about the cycling world. If you’re interested in replacing me or know someone with writing skills, logistical savvy and technical know-how, look for a job listing soon.

The good news is that there are still two more installments of Ask Nick before I go. So if you’ve hesitated to ask a question, now is the time to get it in. Send your inquiries, written with care, correct capitalization and punctuation, to asknick@competitorgroup.com.

Q.Nick,
Do you think a Quarq power meter is up to a season of cyclocross hell as long as I don’t point a power washer directly at it? Sand, mud and downpours are standard issue.

Also do you think the drivetrain will hiccup much if the Quarq is SRAM and the rest of the drivetrain is full mechanical Dura-Ace? I could switch the chain to a KMC or Wippermann if that would smooth things over.
— Anna Barensfeld

A.Anna,
I think your Quarq will be just fine for cyclocross. They are pretty robust units. Power washers are not a great idea for much of your bike, but useful in removing mud quickly at races. The best mechanics try to avoid all bearings when they blast a bike. Focus instead on brakes, wheels, tires and handlebar tape, only spraying the drivetrain when necessary. Otherwise a normal hose will get the job done with a brush.

Your Quarq will work just fine with your Shimano components. Bear in mind that you will have to change the chainrings for cyclocross anyway and you could buy yourself Shimano rings if you’re particularly worried. I’ve had good luck with both Shimano and KMC chains on predominantly Shimano bikes. Wippermann chains are also excellent, but I prefer them on Campagnolo bikes. They seem a little slower to shift when I’ve used them on my Shimano/SRAM bikes.

Q.Nick,
In some of your previous columns you mention that you eat rice cakes, like the pros, while riding.  What are you doing with rice cakes that makes them taste so delicious and not like hay cakes?
— Morris

A.Morris,
We call them rice cakes, but they aren’t the dried cardboard discs you can buy at the grocery. Instead they are moist globs of rice, eggs, bacon, salt and cheese that we make ourselves. My apologies for not making the difference more apparent! VeloNews.com made videos with the authors of The Feed Zone Cookbook. You can learn to make Allen Lim’s rice cakes, here. Lim has started to experiment with different varieties, both sweet and savory. A fellow rice-cake devotee friend called me the other with the idea to make apple-crisp rice cakes. The beauty of them is the ability to customize them for your tastes and needs. I like mine a bit saltier than some do. I also tend to increase the egg content. Doing both makes them tastier to my palate and easier on my stomach. But that’s just me.

Q.Nick,
Why does the directeur sportif generally drive the follow car?  Surely he can sit shotgun and have the freedom to read the map, speak to the riders, listen to the radio and tell the mechanic where he wants the car to go? I have a feeling you are going to say tradition.
— Jimmy

A.Jimmy,
Tradition in this case has little to do with the seating arrangements of the team car. Practicality wins out in this situation.

It makes sense for the mechanic to sit in the back for several reasons. It gives him/her more room for tools, spares, etc. That way the mechanic can also access the coolers of drinks, rain bags and extra spare wheels in the trunk area. It also means that the mechanic can try to sneak in catnaps during the race.

But I do think it also makes sense for the director to focus on directing instead of driving. It’s like talking on a phone and driving a car: It doesn’t make sense and I personally wish it was illegal in the United States, as it is in most of the world. But I digress.

Some directors do sit shotgun, though and leave the driving to another director. They can collaborate on tactics, and by dividing the different tasks, they may do them better, both the driving and the directing. Bjarne Riis likes to sit up front and leave the driving to another director. This setup, of course, requires another qualified driver behind the wheel; one that is trusted by the director, mechanic and most importantly, by the riders.

Q.Nick,
What frame pump or minipump do you carry on road rides?  After more than 25 years of riding, it seems that I’ve tried them all but can’t say which I prefer.
— Bradley

A.Bradley,
I have a couple favorites. For frame pumps, I go with Blackburn, always have. They work great and have lifetime warranties (though I’ve only taken advantage of that once in all my time riding). Blackburn’s Frame Pump CF is a favorite and with its carbon fiber tube looks great on modern bikes. Of course, as I go to the Blackburn site, it is no longer listed. But you can still find stock online or at shops.

For minipumps, I love Lezyne’s line. I’ve used the Road Drive for high-pressure applications and the Alloy Drive for mountain bike and ’cross tires. When I travel I bring along Lezyne’s Micro Floor Drive HP HPG (wow, what a lengthy name!). It’s a compact floor pump with an inline pressure gauge. It works great.

In case you haven’t noticed, SRAM launched its new Red 2012 group in February. Caley Fretz reported on the festivities from Mallorca and also wrote several follow up pieces, including one on compatibility with older SRAM parts.

This article is about how the parts work after the glimmer of “newness” has worn off. I’ve ridden Red 2012 on my personal Harvey Cycle Works road bike for the past several months and maintained it on my girlfriend’s Cannondale Evo Six Women’s. So far, all is going well. Red 2012 certainly takes SRAM’s top road group to a new level. But how does it compare to the competition?

The good

For the most part, SRAM’s new Red group is a big improvement over the previous generation. I like the ergonomics of the shifter better and adjusting reach on the brake and shift levers is easier than before. The whole system runs much quieter thanks to the new cassette and shifting is vastly improved, even when used with old SRAM and Rotor rings.

Shift-lever feel, with properly installed and maintained cables, is a bit ruddier than previous SRAM, and I mean that in a good way. It feels robust. You are sure of each shift. For those new to SRAM DoubleTap, the new Red will decrease the learning curve of DoubleTap shifting.

The great

The Yaw system front derailleur is a very clever design — perhaps a bit too clever, as it takes some serious instruction reading the first time one sets it up (SRAM also has a video that helps). But after figuring out how to install and adjust it, the shifting is wonderful. The new four-arm crank and all-new chainrings are a marked improvement over previous generations. It now takes less force than before to shift and whether going to the larger or smaller rings, the shifting is seamless.

Even with Rotor rings (not really recommended by SRAM), I experienced perfect front shifting. Part of that is also thanks to the integrated chain catcher. The catcher is very elegant, secured to the fixing bolt of the front derailleur and adjusted with a small setscrew. Making adjustments is very easy, but it’s something you’ll really only have to do if you change the size of chainrings or cassettes.

The ergonomics of the brake levers is improved over the previous SRAM shape. They feel better in the hand than Shimano’s mechanical groups and Campagnolo’s offerings. SRAM includes a set of gel inserts that help soften the transition from hood to bar and they’re simply fantastic. Each set of shifters comes with two sets, made for use with either front-of-bar or back-of-bar routing of the shift cable.

The Achilles heel

The brakes are not what I thought they would be. I tinkered with brake pads and rim combinations and never got them to perform they way I would have liked. I think SRAM may have gotten a bit carried away in the weight department when designing them. When it comes to stopping power I think Shimano still outperforms SRAM.

What’s great about the new Red brakes is how they handle the latest generation of wide rims. I also like the quick-release adjuster on the brakes. It’s a nice design with indented travel that allows a rider with several wheelsets to adjust for wider rims very easily. It would also allow a rider on a long, wet ride or race to easily compensate for pad wear if using carbon wheels.

What next?

With both compact and standard cranks on offer and cassettes from 11-23 to 11-28, Red has most cyclists covered. But for those that enjoy even lower gearing (and I’m one of them when riding dirt climbs), SRAM WiFli will be offered in Force and Red derailleurs.

Currently you can pair an XX 11-32 cassette with Rival’s WiFli rear derailleur for a pretty light setup, but SRAM has a Red cassette in the works with its rubber dampers for quieter running.

The Reve Tour, six women who rode the entire 2012 Tour de France route one day ahead of the pro men, were some of the first to get the new Red WiFli rear derailleurs. Paired with XX cassettes, they worked well, with no reported problems.

The WiFli rear derailleur is both a little heavier and a little more expensive than its short-caged brother — 167 grams and $380 compared to 145 grams and $358. For those looking for more fun in the hills, that is weight worth carrying and money worth spending if they’re in search of an ultralight climbing machine.

SRAM has also released a new Red 2012 version of its Quarq power meter crank. Available in both standard and compact, the new crank uses Red 2012 rings and therefore has a four-arm spider.

In summary

Life with SRAM Red 2012 is good. I love the ergonomics of the new shifter and the aesthetics of the entire group. The drivetrain runs quieter than you realize, something I noticed when hopping on other bikes. While the front derailleur is tricky to adjust at first, taking the time to do it properly leads to fantastic front shifting.

With more options than ever, including compact, WiFli and power meters, SRAM has delivered a great top-tier group that easily surpasses its previous offerings. What is possibly more impressive is that SRAM has reached this level after only six years of making road components. Both Shimano and Campagnolo have been at it for considerably longer.

In April 2006, Lennard Zinn, after riding DoubleTap for the first time, wrote that, “It not only looks like the two-party system in road components may be over, but that the SRAM group is no Nader-like spoiler only thwarting the chances of one to the benefit of the other. SRAM looks poised to take market share from both Shimano and Campagnolo, selling to those looking for another option as well as those seeking the lightest weight and/or highest performing.” Six years later, SRAM has done exactly what Zinn predicted, effectively marginalizing Campagnolo in the process.

At $2,575, SRAM Red 2012 isn’t cheap, but performance doesn’t come easily. For essentially the same money, one can buy Shimano’s Ultegra Di2 group, but with a weight penalty. You can also find Shimano’s mechanical 7900 Dura-Ace group for the same money. Soon, Shimano’s 9000 mechanical group will become available for $2,700, but you’ll likely have to add the cost of new 11-speed compatible wheels to that price tag.

For this reviewer, that all adds up to SRAM Red 2012 as a great option, fully in the hunt among its competitors. If you’re already a SRAM fan, you’ll really enjoy the upgrades to Red 2012. If you’re new to SRAM, or didn’t like DoubleTap before, give Red 2012 a test ride. Shifter feel is much more distinct than before.

And on top of all that, Red may be the quietest group on the market, something this mechanic’s ear really appreciates.

Editor’s Note: VeloNews tech editor Nick Legan is a former ProTour mechanic who most recently wrenched for Team RadioShack at the 2010 Tour de France and elsewhere. His column appears here every Thursday. You can submit questions to Nick at asknick@competitorgroup.com, and be sure to check out Nick’s previous columns.

Q.Nick,
Is the tape that is placed on road brakes intended to be removed during the initial bike build, or after brake installation? I think it is a shipping aid and should be removed, but, surprisingly, there is some disagreement among my peers.
— Phil

A.Phil,
You are right, my friend. That tape is to keep the cable fixing bolt assembly from scratching the arm of your brake during shipping and storage. I take it off before I install the brake because that’s when I think it’s easiest to do so. My reasoning is that shiny metal is nicer to look at than a piece of foamy tape. Don’t worry if your buddies disagree with you. Your bike looks nicer to a fella like me.

Q.Nick,
You recently covered the tools you bring to support certain events and the thought process that got you there. I frequently travel to races and have to care for several bikes while away from my main kit. I was curious as to whether you found a case that you really love. Packing my 2-foot-long yellow construction box into a hatchback isn’t the most efficient solution.
— Andrew

A.Andrew,
That’s an intimate, highly personal question. You’re basically asking me boxers or briefs. But I’m in the business of sharing. Unfortunately, there’s no quick answer. You have to figure out how much you need. Try to avoid redundancies unless they make your work go much faster. Hopefully you won’t be rebuilding bikes, so you’ll probably only need minimal tools for adjustments and maintenance.

I’m a fan of Pelican cases. They’re pretty cheap, really burly and offered in lots of sizes. You can make your own palettes using sheets of aluminum or carbon fiber. Figure out where all your tools should be, in order of frequency of use. Then drill holes on either side of the tool and use elastic cord to keep them in place. You can make very tidy, travel-proof tool kits that serve your needs. Check out Ben’s blog post at Problem Solvers for a great visual and more words on how to build one.

Oh, and I wear boxers.

Q.Nick,
I’m running the old 8-speed Dura-Ace and want to upgrade to newer wheels. I know Shimano has some 10-speed-specific wheels, but generally can I put an 8-speed cassette on a modern 9/10-cassette body? Do I need to space it out or is the body too wide?
— John

A.John,
You’ll be just fine. Shimano 8-speed cassette bodies are the same width as Shimano 10-speed cassette bodies. You won’t even need a spacer. Just make sure you don’t buy Shimano’s Dura-Ace hubs with aluminum freehub bodies, made from 2004 to 2007. Those only work with Shimano 10-speed cassettes. If you wait for a bit before buying new wheels, know that Shimano’s new 11-speed cassette hubs will also work with your 8-, 9- and 10-speed cassettes, but will require a spacer. Enjoy!

Q.Nick,
I raced a duathlon this weekend in the pouring rain. It was miserable, but I finished. I was dead after the race and didn’t get a chance to do any post-ride maintenance on my bike. The next day when I was going out for a recovery ride, I stood my bike up on its rear wheel and water came out of the (carbon) frame (I have holes at the rear-end of the chainstays). I know that I should clean and re-lube my chain and pivots after a rainy ride, but what other maintenance should I do? Should I remove the bottom bracket to drain the frame or anything else?
— Phil

A.Phil,
In the days of steel bikes it was really important to drain your frame after a wet ride, but with carbon and other non-ferrous frames it’s less important. But that doesn’t mean that there’s nothing to look after. Water sitting in your frame is not a good thing no matter what your frame is made of. That water can ruin bearings, whether in your bottom bracket or your headset.

So, what to do? Start with a bike wash and inspection. Then pull your seatpost and invert your bike. Dump as much water out as possible. If you live in an arid climate, the water will probably evaporate if you leave it out overnight. If you’re in a humid area or you’re particularly worried, it’s worth pulling your crank, bottom bracket and fork. Dry everything out, re-grease and re-install everything.

Your cables can probably use some lube too. A light oil at all the access points and cable guides (like under your bottom bracket) works well. I would also check your brake pads. They get gritty after a wet ride. Best to clean them with a pick and some sandpaper. Lastly, inspect your tires. It’s always good to catch a piece of glass or stone before it can get to your tubes.

Editor’s Note: VeloNews tech editor Nick Legan is a former ProTour mechanic who most recently wrenched for Team RadioShack at the 2010 Tour de France and elsewhere. His column appears here every Thursday. You can submit questions to Nick at asknick@competitorgroup.com, and be sure to check out Nick’s previous columns.

Q.Nick,
I’m trying to organize a charity ride for my collegiate cycling team (University of Oklahoma) and have a few questions about preparing proper support that I hope your experience can speak to. The plan is to cross the state of Oklahoma from the southern border to the north in a day. The route is about 260 rolling miles and I’m organizing donors in a walk-a-thon style format. Obviously this requires a support vehicle.

I’m expecting five to 10 riders and was planning on a large van with a trailer to act as sag and carry food with a mechanic and paramedic inside. What I’m wondering is what kind/how much food and/or drink should be brought and what kind of unexpected things should I expect? Any additional advice or anything I’m overlooking would be great. — Andy

A.Andy,
Sounds like a great adventure. I would first consider what vehicle to use. Unless you’ll be required to transport everyone back to the start, you won’t need a van and a trailer. To be honest, it’s good to have fewer bike spots available on the follow vehicle than you have riders on the road. This means they must finish the ride. If you can arrange for a vehicle to transport all the bags to the finish and let the follow vehicle simply take care of rider needs you’ll be happy to have a smaller setup.

Expect each rider to drink at least one bottle an hour, hopefully more. So you’ll need several coolers. But you can also leapfrog ahead to gas stations and buy ice/drinks as they are consumed. For food, I would ask the riders that are participating. Normal ride food (bars and gels) usually get old after four or five hours on the bike. You’ll have riders looking for savory snacks and real food. Beef jerky is good, so too are tortillas with turkey and cheese. Potato chips, fruit, Cokes all work too. I make rice cakes like the pros eat before my big events. To be honest, you’ll have to improvise out on the road a bit. But try to keep something up your sleeve as a surprise for the riders. An ice cream sandwich could taste like heaven in the middle of a hot day.

The paramedic will have a med kit, but you should pack toilet paper, antacid tablets, ibuprofen, chamois cream and plenty of sunscreen. Make sure to have emergency contacts for everyone as well as a list of allergies and preexisting medical conditions. Having everyone sign a waiver might not be a bad idea.

On the mechanical front, bring tubes and a couple tires, a floor pump, chain oil, rags and some tools (your mechanic should bring a kit too).

After participating in Tim Johnson’s Ride on Washington, I would also say that having a captain rider is really important. Pete Webber called the shots for our group, corralling riders and encouraging quick stops. Your captain needs to have a clear idea about how the ride will happen. Will the group come to a complete stop at all stop signs and red lights (I vote YES!)? Will the whole group stop if one rider needs a natural break? What about a flat? Will you feed from a moving car (I vote NO!)? Will it be a rotating paceline? Will it start easy and ramp up in speed? These decisions need to be decided upon and told to the participants. Getting everyone on the same page about your ride’s etiquette is probably more important than whether you have Mountain Dew on hand or not. Best of luck! Remember to keep it fun.

Q.Nick,
As coverage of the Olympic track cycling begins, I can’t help but notice that many velodrome riders opt for pedals with straps on them. Is there an advantage in a sprint scenario where the straps are more beneficial than clipless pedals? — Joel

A.Joel,
Many track athletes, especially sprinters, prefer the security of toe clips and straps. In a violent effort it’s easy to pull a pedal out of many clipless pedal systems. Accidentally twisting out of clipless pedals on a fixed gear bike, at speed, is not a pretty sight. Because the toe clip and strap have to be manually loosened, that risk is decreased. But that doesn’t mean they’re foolproof. Sprinters will still break toe straps in starts. Track mechanics keep a spare handy at all times.

Q.Nick,
Is there any formula for the frequency of replacing chains in order to get more than one season of 4,000-5,000 miles out of a cassette? Usually I replace chains every 1,500 miles or whenever my Rolf Gauge says I need to. The cassette I’ve had on for the last year is now starting to indicate wear and time for replacement after only three chains. If one were to replace their chain between 800-1,000 miles, would that extend the life of the cassette beyond one year? — Chris

A.Chris,
Unfortunately there is no formula for chain replacement. Because conditions like rider weight, strength, gear selection and maintenance are all so case specific, it’s difficult to give hard and fast rules about the problem. A chain wear gauge is a great start, though, and it sounds like you stay on top of it.

Changing your chain more frequently could help, but I would first ask about how frequently you clean your drivetrain. Sandy conditions, wet rides and neglect can speed up the process. If you find that you’re often on a dirty bike, more washes could save you some money.

Q.Nick,
I have two questions regarding race radio. First, do race directors ever play music via race radio for the riders? Second, can directors change the channel and tune in to other teams? — Appel

A.Appel,
I suppose that a director could play music via the team radios, but the audio quality wouldn’t be the best. It’s hard to get across simple instructions or questions over the radio in many cases. It never happened while I was in a team car.

As to your second question, that’s a touchy subject for some directors. I have heard stories of directors listening in on their competition but it isn’t really fair play if you ask me. To my knowledge there is no rule forbidding radio scanning, but the truth is that the effort may not be worth it. Directors would better use their time paying attention to the race and their riders.

But do know that at times radio communications are overheard by accident. I’ve been in many team cars, riding along looking at the trees, and suddenly we were hearing that a rider on another team needed water bottles or was hungry. Channels get mixed up all the time. It can make for some entertainment, but rarely changes the outcome of the race.

The bar can be cut down and Answer even includes a visual guide on how narrow to go for a particular riding style in the graphics of the naked bar. From cycling cap-wearing hipster narrow to singlespeed wide, Answer has you covered.

The bar has 20mm rise and can be flipped for 20mm of drop. The graphics work either way. Answer called on singlespeed national champ, Evan Plews, when designing the bar and that accounts for its exceptional width.

I’ve ridden other bars with dramatic sweep and liked them. I have a Soma Clarence on my townie right now and love it. But when it comes to installing one of these bars on my lightweight 29er hardtail, I always seem to balk. Most of them are just so heavy. Now, I don’t consider myself a weight weenie, but I’m no glutton for punishment either. When the fellas at Answer handed me one of the 720 Enduro bars, I was smitten.

The ergonomics are great. I love how wide it is, wider than most other alt bars in fact. And it doesn’t balloon the weight of my rig by 100 plus grams compared to most cross-country handlebars.

At $175 the bar isn’t cheap, but compared to other alt bars it is significantly lighter. A Soma Clarence 31.8mm bar costs only $60 but weighs 123 grams more. For additional comparison, Jeff Jones sells his Cut H-Bar in titanium for $380 or aluminum for $120, with respective weights of 425 and 420 grams. Lastly, Ragley’s Carnegie Carbon bar runs $165 and weighs close to 300 grams. When put into this realm, the Answer Enduro looks competitive.

www.answerproducts.com

Read also:

The unique bikes of the TransAlp peloton

Technical FAQ: Setting up an authentic vintage 650b

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A couple weekends ago I headed to the mountains of Utah to check out the latest from Quality Bicycle Products and its associated bike brands. Here I’ll go into the new offerings and updates to the 2013 drop bar models from Salsa and Foundry. For info on the latest off-road offerings please click over to Singletrack.com.

Foundry Cycles has three new drop bar models for 2013, all in carbon, all with disc brakes, and all with thru axles on the front wheels. PressFit 30 bottom brackets, double bottle bosses and Whisky forks with tapered steerers are also standard on all three models. Foundry also offers a 10-year warranty to the original owner on all Foundry bike models.

The Riveter is a claimed 1,060-gram, tube-to-tube construction, disc-brake road machine with aggressive race geometry. Foundry says the Riveter “is a no-holds-barred race bike through and through.” The only small problem with that is the Riveter, with its disc brakes, isn’t legal for sanctioned road events. But that may change in the future. With a chainstay-mounted rear brake and internal cable routing, the complete bike, available only in black/gray, has a low key, refined look. Foundry will offer the Riveter in three build packages ranging from $5,175 for a SRAM Red model to a 105-equipped base model priced at $2,715. A bare frame will run $2,199, meaning that the complete bikes, as expected, are a much better value.

The Thresher uses monocoque construction, longer chainstays and a fork with increased offset to create Foundry’s endurance road bike. Again, it uses disc brakes and Whisky’s No. 9 thru axle fork. Frame weights are a little heavier than the Riveter at 1,200 grams. The Thresher’s rear brake is mounted to a braced seatstay and cables are routed externally with a nice through-head tube cable guide feature. Stack and reach numbers of the Thresher are identical to the Riveter, with nice middle-of-the-road figures. The increased wheelbase should make for a more stable bike, though. Like the Riveter, Foundry will offer the Thresher in three complete builds and as a frameset. Pricing runs from $5,125 to $2,949 for complete bikes and $1,800 for a frame.

Last but not least is the Harrow, Foundry’s newest take on a cyclocross bike. It doesn’t replace the Auger that Foundry unveiled at Interbike last year, which is available in rim or disc brake versions. Instead, Foundry will market the Auger as a more utilitarian bike, with fenders included on complete bikes. The Harrow, meanwhile, actually has a slightly heavier frame compared to the Auger (1,150 grams vs. 1,060 grams) but should be stiffer thanks to a massive square-shaped down tube and more compliant with its spindly seatstay wishbone. With full cable housing and ample tire clearance, the Harrow looks to be a great foul weather ‘cross machine. If you’ve noticed a theme in the offerings, you’ll already know that Foundry will offer the Harrow in three complete builds and as a frameset. Pricing starts at $4,195 for a SRAM Red bike and drops as low as $2,850 for a Shimano 105 bike. A frame will set you back $2,000.

Unfortunately for cyclocrossers, the Harrow, like its Riveter and Thresher siblings, won’t be available until early 2013. But Foundry is booking orders now, so check with your local shop to see if they have them on the way.

Salsa has two new drop bar models on offer for 2013. The Colossal is a disc-brake road bike, named after a café in Minneapolis, offered in both titanium and steel. The tag line for the bike is: “Colossal. Eat a big breakfast.” That hits at the intended use of the bike. Less road racer and more endurance road bike, it has clearance for 28mm tires but no more. So don’t buy it thinking you’ll slap on cyclocross rubber. Both models use Enve’s disc-brake carbon fork. Salsa will offer a complete bike in each frame material, at $3,900 for the complete titanium bike and $2,400 for the steel rig. Framesets cost $2,500 and $1,200 respectively.

The Warbird, offered in aluminum and titanium, is a dedicated gravel-racer from Salsa. Tested at events like the Dirty Kanza 200, the finished product is a smart take on the ever-growing gravel segment. With a lower bottom bracket and larger front triangle than a typical cyclocross bike, the Warbird is designed to be stable over rough roads and allow room for two bottle cages and a top tube-mounted bag for long days. For many, it replaces the much loved, disc brake-equipped La Cruz model that Salsa retired a few seasons ago. Look to spend $3,900 for a complete Warbird Ti and $2,500 for a complete Warbird 2 (aluminum). Titanium framesets will cost $2,500 and an aluminum framset will be $1,300.

Salsa is also offering the Vaya, its disc brake touring bike, in a stainless steel, S&S-coupled “Travel” version. The use of Salsa’s Alternator swinging dropouts makes building a single speed travel bike very appealing. Without paint or decals to damage in transit or in travel, the bike should find a following quickly. Complete Vaya Travel bikes will run $3,950 with an Ultegra triple group and stout DT Swiss wheels. The frameset will cost $2,200. Neither cost includes a travel case, but there are many good options on the market.